toddy

"Toddy" in the northern Maldivian form is made from the sap of coconut trees, and served warm.

Maldivians are a very social people. The most common form of entertainment is to walk around the island, stopping for a few minutes at the houses of family and friends. As a special visitor to the local islands, I was under the impression that my friend/guides were under (perhaps unspoken) orders from their family to bring me around for a visit. Everyone wanted to meet me, and I was quite honored by their hospitality. They are a kind and generous people, and my experiences on local islands have been the most "pure" explorer/adventures that I have ever had the pleasure of undertaking. For many on these islands, I was the first white person that they had ever seen. Children followed me everywhere, and everyone was very kind,

It is custom to give visitors a drink. Visits last the length of that drink, sometimes two drinks. Usually this drink is something special, like fruit juice, a coconut or a cup of tea. I'm always a little worried that water might be added to the fruit juice, and might cause problems. (Well-water might have unfortunate bacteria.) Very occasionally there will be a bottle of Coca Cola, which is deemed as an extra special event in itself, as it is costly.

One night on a local island, while visiting the house of my friend's father, I had the great misfortune of having a special "toddy" placed into my already warm hands. "It's very difficult to make, very old custom," I was told.

One sip...I fought hard not to make a face. I choked a little and asked about the drink. Many of the family members were there, and as a group effort with great enthusiasm, they gave me the long proud history of this drink. Their father climbed all the coconut trees and farmed this sap. I could see the pride in their eyes and knew that drinking couldn't be avoided, as it would be a rather extreme, not to mention personal, insult.

Another small sip. Something in the taste and temperature made thoughts of urine mixed with coconut juice play racquet ball in my head with the desperate, "How do I get rid of this??!!" I offered some to my friend (and host of my trip). He kindly assured me it was only for me. (Bugger.)

His sister, who had given it to me, went inside of the kitchen. My eyes sought a way out. No luck. Too many witnesses.

A noise. Luck! A cat! The cat was in the dark in the bushes that stretched behind the house and into the jungle. I followed. Crouching down low, I called for the cat and poured out as much of the drink as I dared. I then stood up, walked a little further, pretending to drink. Still calling furtively for the cat, I crouched down and poured out a little more. Half gone, my friend was calling me back. I stood facing him and the others, looking as if I was downing the glass. I sat down next to him once more.

Eyeing the glass and myself, my friend queried, "It's very hard for you to drink?"
As casually as I could, I countered with "No. It's just very strong on my stomach." As proof I took another swig, bracing my body so as not to let an involuntary shudder slip, and resisting the urge to gag. All eyes were on me, as is usual anywhere I go on the local islands. Over the next few minutes, I periodically pretended to take a sip. Aware that the level wasn't changing, I interspersed the sips with gulps. Finally, my friend's brother was ready to take me around the island. Thank God! I asked my friend if I could leave the glass (with 1/6 remaining). I was afraid that he would signal me to down it, and held my breath in fear, while willing a smile that reached to my eyes.

To my great relief, he let me go.