I feel like I'm slowly unraveling the rhythm of life here. There are many workers from Addu Atoll in the South, they are a very strong, very proud people. Unfortunately there are not enough jobs in their own atoll, so many of them come north to support their families. Male is modern, and everyone likes to feel the pace of life through gadgets and fashion.
Maldives is a country that's changing very quickly. Although the government tries to protect the people from outside influence, now that so many people go abroad as seamen, or to study, it's inevitable that they bring back new ideas, not to mention the inevitable effects of tourism no matter how isolated. In addition, the people of Addu Atoll still feel very strongly about the politics and are many are trying to move for a change in governemnt. They have formed an opposition party which is not yet allowed inside the country and so operates out of Sri Lanka and Europe. The President is elected by the Parliament, and in turn gets to choose 8 members of Parliament. The rest of Parliament is elected by the people and each represent an island or atooll. The sitting President has just been re-elected for another 5 year term, which will give him 30 years in office. There are whispers of change in the air, although I do not know in what form it will be.
Education is a very recent thing to many islands. On Male, there has been at least one boys' school for 77 years. Most schools however, are much newer. Originally, when girls began going to school, they had to got to a separate school, but now they new schools are more integrated. Maldives is 100% Muslim, but it is much more relaxed in many ways that other Muslim countries Women have a lot of freedom in how they dress. The young women wear dresses, pants with long shirts, or even jeans with fitted t-shirts. Some women wear veils over their hair, and some wear burkahs, covering all but their hands, feet and eyes.
Some of the staff are married with a family in Male , and others have their family on their home island. A good wife (a very good wife) is an excellent home manager, cooks well, and can help you build your house. It's very common for the men to work on a resort island, and the women to manage the house and money. Maldives traditionally has one of the highest divorce rates in the world, but it is slowly on the decline now.
Men can have up to 3 wives, but it is becoming more difficult to do so. They must prove they have the financial resources to support additional families, and their current wife must not object.
The people are a beautiful people with medium brown to dark skin, large eyes and beautiful white smiles. To my eyes they are very similar to their Indian and Sri Lankan neighbors. By western standards, the women are particularly exotic looking.
Ninety percent of what's sold in the shops is imported. The variety is amazing considering the size of the capital and country. Fresh fruit is fairly limited. There are more sandals for sale than I have seen in my life!
Shops are usually open very late, until 11:00pm, to accommodate the people from the islands that come over after work. Everyday at prayer times, the shops close for prayers and a man climbs up the tower of the largest Mosque in Male to call the people to pray. You can hear him from all over Male.
In the fish market in Male, you can buy a tuna for about a dollar, and then for a few Rufiyah (a few cents) you can take it to the counter to get is cut. The fish are just lined out on the floor and you can point to the ones you want. The smell was referred to by my guide as "Fish Armani" (it was TERRIBLE)
In the fruit market, you can usually taste most everything and then decide which one to buy. The bananas are very small and flavorful. You can buy a coconut which they will prepare for you to drink on the spot. The green ones are whether and the orange/brown ones are said to be very good for the stomach, although they may taste a bit salty. You can stand there and drink it, then afterwards they will cut it open so that you may eat the soft insides with a spoon made from the ask. There are also many spices, chili chips, banana chips and more. A special treat is Bondi, wrapped in paper and in the shape of a footlong sausage, it is referred to as "Maldivian chocolate". It's made from coconut, and the sugar from the coconuts very compacted. One log is about $2. A bottle of coconut oil is about $1 and delicious smelling.
This season is the rainy season, but although the rains come in torrential downpours, they are not cold and the sun soon returns. The varieties of tropical fish are stunning. The other night I saw a manta ray that was about 2 meters across, swimming below my feet at the end of the jetty. I've been swimming quite a few times with a nurse shark that's also about 2 meters long. He/she always seems a little annoyed that I got in and scared away the fish, but keeps his/her distance until I get out. There are so many fish here that sharks do not pose a danger to people.
